American Cichlids
Quetzal Cichlid
This robust representative of the subgenus Theraps can grow to 12 inches in length. It is native to the basin of the Rio Usumacinta in southeastern Mexico and northern Guatemala and to coastal rivers in neighboring Belize. Like most Theraps, this species is slow-growing and requires several years to develop its full color pattern.
Unlike most other Middle American cichlids, it is characterized by a remarkable degree of individual variability in coloration. Specimens differ tremendously among themselves in the amount and arrangement of dark red, metallic orange, black and iridescent blue-green coloration they display in their color pattern. In fact, they differ to such an extent that no two individuals are alike in this regard.
The quetzal cichlid prefers slightly alkaline (pH 7.2 to 7.6), moderately hard (to 100 parts per million total dissolved solids) water, and will prosper over a temperature range of 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Softer, less alkaline conditions are acceptable. This species does not tolerate poor nitrogen cycle management. A program of frequent partial water changes is thus essential.
Theraps feed extensively upon vegetation in nature. This behavior carries over in captivity, making H. synspilus a very poor candidate for a planted aquarium. Fortunately, this species is not a picky eater and will greedily consume all of the usually available live and prepared foods. In my experience, freeze-dried krill and live earthworms are particular favorites. The quetzal cichlid benefits from offerings of fresh vegetable foods, such as romaine lettuce or thinly sliced zucchini.
The red and orange elements of its color pattern are greatly enhanced by regular offerings of such items. Like other representatives of the subgenus, H. synspilus is much more tolerant of other cichlids than it is of members of its own species. With the passage of time, you will find your specimen growing more assertive in its interactions with other fish, but it should always be a good neighbor to any tankmates too large to conveniently swallow.
Breeding Quetzal Cichlid
Obtaining a compatible pair is the chief obstacle to be overcome in breeding the quetzal cichlid. Raising a group of six to eight fry to maturity together guarantees formation of at least one viable pair. Although adult strangers of the opposite sex will sometimes pair successfully in a community setting, the only way to eliminate all risk to the female is to place mature adults in a tank using the incomplete divider method.
Space limitations preclude a complete description of this and other alternative approaches to breeding substratum cichlids in this column. However, such information can be found in my book, The Cichlid Aquarium, distributed by Tetra Press. Heros synspilus prefers to place its eggs in an enclosed area, and will excavate a suitable spawning site if one is not provided. Large clay flowerpots or sections of 6-inch diameter PVC pipe (available at any building supply outlet) are acceptable alternative spawning sites.
The female tends the clutch while the male carries out perimeter defense. At 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the eggs hatch in three days. The fry are free-swimming four days later and can take Artemia (brine shrimp) nauplii and finely powdered prepared food immediately. With frequent feedings and regular partial water changes, the fry grow rapidly. Like those of many Heros species, quetzal cichlid fry are "grazers" on parental mucus. In the confines of an aquarium, it is difficult for the parents to escape such attention from their progeny, who are often numerous and persistent enough to do their parents serious injury. It is therefore prudent to separate parents and fry at about four weeks post-hatching.
By Paul Loiselle. Source: aquarium fish magazine
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